From Altaya to Tosonsengel

the 22 May 2016 in Uncategorized

After a small break of some days in Altay at Love our American host, we took the road towards Uliastay. The first 7 km were fast on a good asphalt road then back to the dust. That said, the road was not bad, I mean it was not sandy and it was running well. Finally until Nico's tires began to burst every 30 minutes. We finished our stage of the day, assembled the tent and the next morning his bike was flat again although we had repaired it shortly before going to sleep. It was too much for him and he thus decided to give up and return to Altay. So I continued my way alone in a dreamy scenery a little greener than before. My first day was not bad, the way pretty good, I met only a few sandy passages from time to time, now maintaining permanently my attention. This day, I really not bad moved forward and put the tent just before dark, tired with painful knees. Upon awakening, I was not going well, the fatigue, lack of energy, an accumulation of lots of things began to make me doubt, what caused a deep anxiety in me. But what happens to me?! For the first time since the beginning of this journey now I question myself. Since the time that everyone asks me if I ask myself this or that question and every time I say " well no " without understanding why I should question myself, well, here we are... A horrible thing, a whole questioning, a tornado in my head ... and I finally understand that what feeds this journey more than everything is all these meetings… But from China until now is the nothingness, already in Kazakstan, the invitations had greatly decreased. Then, added to it the fatigue, the lack of calories to pedal, the heat and all that, I did not know anymore where I was there. Even to the point of asking myself why I want so much to do everything without engine, while obviously I do not contribute for Guinness, and it has for me nothing of a challenge and the way, how beautiful was my intention to weave my small continuous thread, was broken in Iran... and then on the Kazakh border. So what, what am I looking for... In short, a battle in my head began, a mental fatigue added to my moral fatigue  that I did not need. However, when during the day while the road was terrible, as I felt exhausted, while it rained from time to time and while I attacked a super long climb where I had to push the bike, I said no to a small truck which proposed to take me to Uliastay... But why such a rage, me who am far from being extremist or fanatic and who like the righteous circles, now I do so... Of what to ask itself questions all the same. I finished my day of tempered labour, as long as I pushed the bike to cross the pass it was ok, but when I arrived at the top, dipped, the descent to Uliastay, although magnificent was icy for my hands and my knees. I was glad to arrive. I ended up at the hotel. In the evening, I met a Dutch couple who were doing Shanghai - Holland in 4 × 4 and a German who had just arrived here and would stay there for 2 years work. I had quite a discussion with the woman in 4 × 4 of whom I do not even know the name and of course I was not able to refrain from speaking to her about what happened to me... She immediately told me that it was typical of Mongolia, many long-term travelers ending up taken in doubt by arriving here !!! I speak about it to a friend on the net who tells me the same thing, anecdote in support, it does not reassure me, but I can see what she's talking about, this grand country as possible is also very exhausting...  In short, after all these gossips, a good night's rest, an early but smoothly wake, here I am cheered up, more motivated than ever.

I begin my road which was far from being as terrible as I thought, the Dutch people arriving from this road had told me it was ok, but a series of climbs and descents, nothing that terrible. I was quite cheerful on my bike, when the thunderstorm began scolding, here I was, pursued and riding a part without low side to take refuge and plant the tent in case … And there, now a small truck stops, a dad and his two daughters, a teenager and a small. The man tells me to get in, it's going to rain, the road rises … I say no, he insists, I repeat "no I go by bicycle", but I did not have to be very convincing, he insists even more, cuts the engine, I insist on refusing, he comes down, shows to me that we can put the bike in the trailer, I begin thinking about it, I do not know what to think, I assume that things happen on purpose in life, ok it is a little bit strong all the same today, never anybody so much insisted to take us and god knows that it is not the first time being proposed... So, that this man arrives at this moment here, and that he insists so much... I finally crack and I load the bike into the truck. I'm hardly sat on the seat that I start to cry and try to contain my tears as I can, the poor people do not understand what is happening and my Mongolian does not allow me to explain them my project. I can only tell them that this is the first time I get in a car, but I am not able to explain my trip, so they do not understand very much... The rain begins to fall... He was happy to take me, asked me to take pictures, has not stopped trying to talk to me, gesturing, it made me a world of good, meetings and sharing moments like this are so rare I miss it !  20 km farther we arrive at the pass, he stops to turn around of one of those cairns (ovoo in Mongolian) which we cross everywhere with blue ribbons, and deposit money there. The rain had ceased I took the opportunity to ask him to drop me off. Having seen well that something did not go, he does not insist, unloads the bike, his daughter gives me her Facebook so that I can send her the photos, before leaving he asks me once again if I am sure of not wanting to recharge the bike, I smile, everyone goes away and I go back on my bike very satisfied to have gone out of the car, but disturbed to have got in it, it remains to find out why it affects me so much I do not understand why I lock myself in this rule, which is finally against my spirit of freedom, I must have a problem, which remains to be found out...

Then, not less than 2 hours later, I 'm stuck in a restaurant by repeated storms, so I slept there, spending all day with this family made me feel good, the next day still pursued by the rain I stopped several times in restaurants or abandoned houses. Finally here if you want to meet and attempt to communicate with people, well you have to go and cause these meetings, take the first step, if not they stay there to look at you without saying a word, but when you start talking all unlocks and even if that language is impossible to pronounce you always come to be understood in one way or another. I finally got to Tosonsengel, where I met a couple of super nice American missionaries with whom I spent the afternoon and who helped me to take my bus to Ulaan Baator. So I arrived to the capital three days ago, exhausted as ever after 30 hours of hellish bus, the bulk knees, thighs on fire, but super happy to have ended in it with the bike in Mongolia.

Nights

Budget

After a small break of some days in Altay at Love our American host, we took the road towards Uliastay. The first 7 km were fast on a good asphalt road then back to the dust. That said, the road was not bad, I mean it was not sandy and it was running well. Finally until Nico's tires began to burst every 30 minutes. We finished our stage of the day, assembled the tent and the next morning his bike was flat again although we had repaired it shortly before going to sleep. It was too much for him and he thus decided to give up and return to Altay. So I continued my way alone in a dreamy scenery a little greener than before. My first day was not bad, the way pretty good, I met only a few sandy passages from time to time, now maintaining permanently my attention. This day, I really not bad moved forward and put the tent just before dark, tired with painful knees. Upon awakening, I was not going well, the fatigue, lack of energy, an accumulation of lots of things began to make me doubt, what caused a deep anxiety in me. But what happens to me?! For the first time since the beginning of this journey now I question myself. Since the time that everyone asks me if I ask myself this or that question and every time I say " well no " without understanding why I should question myself, well, here we are... A horrible thing, a whole questioning, a tornado in my head ... and I finally understand that what feeds this journey more than everything is all these meetings… But from China until now is the nothingness, already in Kazakstan, the invitations had greatly decreased. Then, added to it the fatigue, the lack of calories to pedal, the heat and all that, I did not know anymore where I was there. Even to the point of asking myself why I want so much to do everything without engine, while obviously I do not contribute for Guinness, and it has for me nothing of a challenge and the way, how beautiful was my intention to weave my small continuous thread, was broken in Iran... and then on the Kazakh border. So what, what am I looking for... In short, a battle in my head began, a mental fatigue added to my moral fatigue  that I did not need. However, when during the day while the road was terrible, as I felt exhausted, while it rained from time to time and while I attacked a super long climb where I had to push the bike, I said no to a small truck which proposed to take me to Uliastay... But why such a rage, me who am far from being extremist or fanatic and who like the righteous circles, now I do so... Of what to ask itself questions all the same. I finished my day of tempered labour, as long as I pushed the bike to cross the pass it was ok, but when I arrived at the top, dipped, the descent to Uliastay, although magnificent was icy for my hands and my knees. I was glad to arrive. I ended up at the hotel. In the evening, I met a Dutch couple who were doing Shanghai - Holland in 4 × 4 and a German who had just arrived here and would stay there for 2 years work. I had quite a discussion with the woman in 4 × 4 of whom I do not even know the name and of course I was not able to refrain from speaking to her about what happened to me... She immediately told me that it was typical of Mongolia, many long-term travelers ending up taken in doubt by arriving here !!! I speak about it to a friend on the net who tells me the same thing, anecdote in support, it does not reassure me, but I can see what she's talking about, this grand country as possible is also very exhausting...  In short, after all these gossips, a good night's rest, an early but smoothly wake, here I am cheered up, more motivated than ever.

I begin my road which was far from being as terrible as I thought, the Dutch people arriving from this road had told me it was ok, but a series of climbs and descents, nothing that terrible. I was quite cheerful on my bike, when the thunderstorm began scolding, here I was, pursued and riding a part without low side to take refuge and plant the tent in case … And there, now a small truck stops, a dad and his two daughters, a teenager and a small. The man tells me to get in, it's going to rain, the road rises … I say no, he insists, I repeat "no I go by bicycle", but I did not have to be very convincing, he insists even more, cuts the engine, I insist on refusing, he comes down, shows to me that we can put the bike in the trailer, I begin thinking about it, I do not know what to think, I assume that things happen on purpose in life, ok it is a little bit strong all the same today, never anybody so much insisted to take us and god knows that it is not the first time being proposed... So, that this man arrives at this moment here, and that he insists so much... I finally crack and I load the bike into the truck. I'm hardly sat on the seat that I start to cry and try to contain my tears as I can, the poor people do not understand what is happening and my Mongolian does not allow me to explain them my project. I can only tell them that this is the first time I get in a car, but I am not able to explain my trip, so they do not understand very much... The rain begins to fall... He was happy to take me, asked me to take pictures, has not stopped trying to talk to me, gesturing, it made me a world of good, meetings and sharing moments like this are so rare I miss it !  20 km farther we arrive at the pass, he stops to turn around of one of those cairns (ovoo in Mongolian) which we cross everywhere with blue ribbons, and deposit money there. The rain had ceased I took the opportunity to ask him to drop me off. Having seen well that something did not go, he does not insist, unloads the bike, his daughter gives me her Facebook so that I can send her the photos, before leaving he asks me once again if I am sure of not wanting to recharge the bike, I smile, everyone goes away and I go back on my bike very satisfied to have gone out of the car, but disturbed to have got in it, it remains to find out why it affects me so much I do not understand why I lock myself in this rule, which is finally against my spirit of freedom, I must have a problem, which remains to be found out...

Then, not less than 2 hours later, I 'm stuck in a restaurant by repeated storms, so I slept there, spending all day with this family made me feel good, the next day still pursued by the rain I stopped several times in restaurants or abandoned houses. Finally here if you want to meet and attempt to communicate with people, well you have to go and cause these meetings, take the first step, if not they stay there to look at you without saying a word, but when you start talking all unlocks and even if that language is impossible to pronounce you always come to be understood in one way or another. I finally got to Tosonsengel, where I met a couple of super nice American missionaries with whom I spent the afternoon and who helped me to take my bus to Ulaan Baator. So I arrived to the capital three days ago, exhausted as ever after 30 hours of hellish bus, the bulk knees, thighs on fire, but super happy to have ended in it with the bike in Mongolia.

8 commentaires

  • Lili says:

    J’ai lu… ça m’a fait mal de voir comme tu as galérée , seule , je pense ,c’est juste une impression mais que tu peu peu etre pas etre seule , je m’expliques , la solitude , meme si tu crois que tu peu la chassée , peu te prendre , c’est angoissant , je vis seule , je le montre a personne mais la solitude me bouffe de l’interieur ca s’explique pas ! je te trouve un visage fatiguée , je suis avant tout une maman j’ai des enfants de ton age je leur dirais la meme chose , ne vas pas au bout de tes forces ecoute ton coeur , ton corps et ton moral , il faut que ton voyage sois plaisir meme si tu en bave par moment , mais quand le moral en prend un coup il faut pas allée sur la ligne rouge …………………………………….. je t’embrasse Lili

  • Jane L says:

    Tu as passé un bien mauvais moment à te retrouver seule avec cette remise en question , loin de tout , j’en suis navrée et je t’envoie plein de jolies zoondes spéciales douceur
    Tu as continué ton chemin,
    La vie ici, de tous les jours est comme cela aussi
    Doute, peur, tension, rencontre, paix, doute, angoisse, stress, maladie parfois, et rencontre etc etc
    Et on continue car l’espoir nous tient que Demain ce sera mieux
    Cette rencontre avec cette famille, puis avec le couple de missionnaire sont de vrais petits « miracles » et je suis heureuse pour toi que tu aies pu vivre cela
    J’ai visionné tes photos de la Mongolie, elles sont superbes
    Prends le temps de recharger tes batteries à Ulan bator et je te fais des grosses bises

  • Françoise says:

    Bonjour Caroline,
    C’est bien que tu nous fasses part de tes doutes, émotions. Ce petit coup de « mou » vient surement de la fatigue accumulée et aussi au fait que tu te sois retrouvée seule alors que jusqu’à présent tu n’avais jamais marché seule. Et puis, la Mongolie n’est peut-être pas un pays facile, malgré toute sa beauté. Gardes courage, reposes toi, fais de belles rencontres avant de continuer. Je suis avec toi, nous sommes tous avec toi.
    Bises
    Françoise

  • Francois says:

    Super de te lire … Merci pour les partages . Oui une période difficile … Mais je suis bluffé depuis longtemps par ton courage, ta motivation, ta persévérance . Bien sur que tu as bien fait de monter dans ce camion !!! Ton aventure est deja extraordinaire. N’oublie pas que malgré le virtuel du web et autres facebook, c’est surtout pour toi que tu vis ce voyage; Il ne faut pas que ta volonté se transforme en opiniâtreté …
    » Ne te parjure pas, dit le Normand en l’interrompant, et prends garde que ton opiniâtreté ne décide de ton sort avant que tu aies vu et bien considéré le destin qui t’attend. » — (Walter Scott, Ivanhoé, 1819, trad. Marie de Fernand, 1860)
    Tu as raison, il faut favoriser les rencontres . C’est la première magie du voyage … et même de la vie ! Profite de ce moment de solitude dans ton parcours pour rencontrer encore plus de gens.
    Plein de bonnes pensées
    PS ; les photos sont vraiment superbes !! bravo

  • Chami chamo says:

    Eh bien bonjour Caroline et je me disais aussi, c’est pas possible, jamais un coup de mou ???!!! Un VRAI coup de mou ??!! Dans tous les récits de voyages à pieds (ou à vélo 😉 ) que j’ai lus, il y a toujours ce passage, cette épreuve qui marque un seuil… Le plus dur est évidemment d’être seul(e) dans ces épreuves qui marquent le chemin et le marcheur. Les couples s’engueulent ferme dans ces moments-là, les binômes se séparent, les groupes se désolidarisent… Mais quand on est seul(e), tout cela se produit à l’intérieur de soi, les cellules explosent, on s’engueule tout seul, on s’en veut… Les larmes heureusement t’ont permise d’extérioriser la révolution qui se produisait en toi. Tu comprendras sans doute ce qui t’est arrivé bien plus tard, peut-être à la fin, peut-être bien après. Tu as réussi cette épreuve puisque tu continues le chemin. Les moments de doute, tout comme les rencontres sublimes, font la force et la singularité de ton chemin.
    Tu as exprimé la volonté de pas monter dans un véhicule, de faire le chemin comme l’ont fait avant toi bien des moines, des pélerins et des clochards célestes : c’est un souhait noble et je comprends que tu aies résisté autant que possible à la tentation de le (te) trahir. Et puis cela m’a rappelé le fantastique récit du couple Poussin (« Afrika » : 3 années de marche tout le long de la côte Est du continent africain jusqu’à Jérusalem), ils avaient fait le même vœu : pas de véhicule, tout à pieds. Mais ils se faisaient inviter bien souvent à monter dans un véhicule pour aller diner et dormir ici ou là, chez des gens qu’ils auraient eu bien tort de ne pas suivre : des rencontres toutes plus merveilleuses les unes que les autres ! Ils imposaient néanmoins toujours une condition pour accepter de monter dans les bolides : qu’ils soient raccompagnés le lendemain au point exact où on les avait extraits du chemin ! Evidemment dans le cas de ton camion qui ne comptait pas faire demi-tour, ce n’était pas possible. Alors tu dois trouver autre chose pour être en paix avec toi-même et ton chemin. Tu as la chose la plus précieuse au monde : le temps, tout ton temps. Rien ne t’empêche de monter dans une voiture, de rester un moment quelque part pour reprendre des forces et surtout revoir la lueur dans les yeux des gens quand tu leur parles, et puis te refaire conduire par un autre véhicule dans l’autre sens au point exact où tu es « tombée ». Tomber n’a rien de honteux. « Tomber sept fois, se relever huit. » Et puis tu sais, » 42 545 km à pieds, 968 km à vélo, 576 km en canoé, 20km en camion », ça suscite immédiatement le sourire et la curiosité… 😉
    Bientôt la rivière ! Bizbiz… Cham.

  • Caro says:

    Merci à tous. 😉 cette épreuve est passée maintenant, je suis en paix avec moi même la tourmente n’a pas durée longtemps…

  • Jérôme says:

    Ok.
    Chère Caro,
    En Mongolie, tu a fait l'expérience du désert, en fait. Or, il me semble que cette expérience n'était vraiment au programme, puisque le but premier de ton projet est les rencontres et voir du pays.
    J'ai bien noté le changement radical que tu nous fait part dès l'entrée en Mongolie où tu nous parle du silence!
    Bien, j'ai deux choses à évoquer que j'ai compris.
    _1 La Mongolie est un pays immense ET très désertique dans son ensemble. Savais tu, chère Caro, qu'il est l'état le moins densément peuplé au monde?
    _2 Faire la route vers le grand nord par mauvais temps. Plus on va au nord, plus le climat est inhospitalier. Perso, je n'aurais jamais fait ce choix avec le vélo comme moyen de transport avec ce mauvais temps. La moto enduro serait, à mon humble avis, un bon compromis.
    Pourquoi n'avez vous pas choisis de bon vtt? Leurs pneus spécifiques passent partout aurait été un bon compromis pour le choix du pneu, sachant qu'il y a des pneus spéciaux sable (ou désert) dans la même idée de la préparation des véhicules du rallye Dakar, par exemple.
    Et je sais aussi qu'il sage de se faire faire son vélo sur mesure pour les voyages au long cours à vélo. Il n'y a pas mieux si on veux éviter trop de douleurs musculaires, tous ça, tel les coureurs cyclistes.
    Enfin, moi Je te découvre alors que tu étais déjà en Corée... En espérant que mes ptits conseils de bon aloi te soient utiles pour l'Amérique, et surtout l'Afrique!
    Je t'embrasse bien fraternellement.

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