From Artik to Magadan

the 24 March 2016 in Uncategorized

After several days spent at Artik, we decided to hit the road , hitchhiking always. We walked until the exit of the village. In 3 hours not a single car or truck either one way or the other. To warm us we had lit a fire on the side. Suddenly two trucks driving together arrived. I stop the first one and ask if he can take us and where he goes. He says he goes to a coal quarry in the middle of nowhere, 140km away but there is no problem, because there we should find a truck that goes to the other side of the quarry. This is the way, each in a truck, we arrived at the weighing station coal trucks. Meanwhile, we said goodbye to Yakutia and entered in the Magadan region and set even one hour more. It was late afternoon and no trucks heading towards Magadan , had passed. At 8 pm at the time of closing,  the lady who does the weighing finally talks to us, quite smiling. She explains us that the following morning there should be trucks for Susuman, and that right now she is going to close and that she opens again tomorrow morning at 8 am. Thinking we had to leave, I asked where we can sleep and she takes me directly to the back rooms, where there is an office room, a relaxation room with a gas cooker, a table, a bed and toilet. We were quite surprised, I thank her strongly and she replies, well nothing you were going to sleep where otherwise ? Yes indeed outside it was freezing cold and there was a strong wind which the following morning, had turned into a snowstorm...

We thus spent at night in the warmth, locked in key.  The next day it was only at 2:20 pm we embarked on a truck of coal for Susuman, with Sacha. Arrived at Susuman late in the afternoon, we hesitated to hit the road or not and sleep in our tent, it was around -10°C (-50°F), but as we did not too much know how was going to take place the hitch-hiking later, we preferred to play it safe. In case, from here, we could take a bus. We were trying to think where we could sleep when a man in a car, probably a taxi came to ask us where from we were. We asked where we could sleep, he pointed us a hotel and another of a lower range, next to where we were. I explain then that we do not go in hotels, our budget does not allow it. He tells me to go with him to check further. He explains to the ladies barricaded behind their bars we are two travelers on bikes and asks the price and before I could say anything he had already paid for us. I tell him not to, he should not pay for us, we are all right, he tells me that it's ok , it makes him happy to help. We drive back to pick Damien with the bikes, he gives me his number to call in case. Super nice.

The next morning it was -25°C (-77°F), we were more than happy not to have slept outside, even more because Damien's sleeping bag only protects until -10°C. I think it would have been a little just. We saw again our good Samaritan. We rode to a place we thought was the end of the city. Just 3 km, enough to turn my scarf into ice, then we made a fire. A man in 4 × 4 stopped to offer us to come to sleep and shower in the electrical station, super nice but it was early and we were about to start. Then came a dump truck. Mika did not leave us anymore, a crazy story. First, he highly insisted that I warm me up in his truck but I was fine with my fire, I found his insistence a little fishy. In the end he took me up anyway... then he tells us that in 3km from there, there is something where we can find lots of trucks that go to Magadan. We answer that one can follow him by bike, no problem. Now we go for 1km and he stops at a gas station. He speaks with the lady and the answer does not seem to please him. Here he explain nothing , compresses the dumpster and starts loading our bikes. Without really understanding what is going on we help him, then climb into the truck. We leave and he returns to Susuman, I then ask him where we go. He tells me that we are going to eat and have a rest. I was furious and bubbled inside, I just loathe that someone decides on things for me without even bothering to talk about it. At no time does the man wondered whether we had time or not, or if we simply agreed that. In a flash our bikes were deposited in a garage with the saddlebags and we were in what appeared to be his apartment, but where he probably does not live. He directly shows me the sheets for the bed, the kitchen and the shower, and asks me for what we want to eat. We just hallucinated, for him it was clear and decided, we stayed there today. 

We understood nothing... furthermore he was very tactile with me, which did not help my annoyance. He came down looking for food on his return he told us to rest , he would be back this evening at 6 pm. Obviously he must have felt that something did not please me, 10 minutes later he returned with a red rose. It was certainly very nice, as the invitation moreover but honestly I did not know what to think. In the end, he returned at 4 pm, we were super uncomfortable with the situation which was imposed on us without understanding the intentions. He must have felt our feelings because he stayed 30 minutes and drank two cognacs and told us "At 9am next morning!". We stayed like idiots... He wanted that we take a taxi to go to Magadan, we told him we wanted to go by truck, the taxi was too expensive, he was more pessimistic than as everybody that we can find well but what to do, the next morning he arrived in advance looking more than depressed, we went to take our bikes and remade the road by 20°C until the end of the city this time, approximately 5km I think. And hardly had we got to where we thought we'd stop, a truck arrives, I quickly stop him, a man all smiling gets off, I ask him if he can take us he says yes, I ask him where he goes, he answers Magadan. 

Nights

Budget

After several days spent at Artik, we decided to hit the road , hitchhiking always. We walked until the exit of the village. In 3 hours not a single car or truck either one way or the other. To warm us we had lit a fire on the side. Suddenly two trucks driving together arrived. I stop the first one and ask if he can take us and where he goes. He says he goes to a coal quarry in the middle of nowhere, 140km away but there is no problem, because there we should find a truck that goes to the other side of the quarry. This is the way, each in a truck, we arrived at the weighing station coal trucks. Meanwhile, we said goodbye to Yakutia and entered in the Magadan region and set even one hour more. It was late afternoon and no trucks heading towards Magadan , had passed. At 8 pm at the time of closing,  the lady who does the weighing finally talks to us, quite smiling. She explains us that the following morning there should be trucks for Susuman, and that right now she is going to close and that she opens again tomorrow morning at 8 am. Thinking we had to leave, I asked where we can sleep and she takes me directly to the back rooms, where there is an office room, a relaxation room with a gas cooker, a table, a bed and toilet. We were quite surprised, I thank her strongly and she replies, well nothing you were going to sleep where otherwise ? Yes indeed outside it was freezing cold and there was a strong wind which the following morning, had turned into a snowstorm...

We thus spent at night in the warmth, locked in key.  The next day it was only at 2:20 pm we embarked on a truck of coal for Susuman, with Sacha. Arrived at Susuman late in the afternoon, we hesitated to hit the road or not and sleep in our tent, it was around -10°C (-50°F), but as we did not too much know how was going to take place the hitch-hiking later, we preferred to play it safe. In case, from here, we could take a bus. We were trying to think where we could sleep when a man in a car, probably a taxi came to ask us where from we were. We asked where we could sleep, he pointed us a hotel and another of a lower range, next to where we were. I explain then that we do not go in hotels, our budget does not allow it. He tells me to go with him to check further. He explains to the ladies barricaded behind their bars we are two travelers on bikes and asks the price and before I could say anything he had already paid for us. I tell him not to, he should not pay for us, we are all right, he tells me that it's ok , it makes him happy to help. We drive back to pick Damien with the bikes, he gives me his number to call in case. Super nice.

The next morning it was -25°C (-77°F), we were more than happy not to have slept outside, even more because Damien's sleeping bag only protects until -10°C. I think it would have been a little just. We saw again our good Samaritan. We rode to a place we thought was the end of the city. Just 3 km, enough to turn my scarf into ice, then we made a fire. A man in 4 × 4 stopped to offer us to come to sleep and shower in the electrical station, super nice but it was early and we were about to start. Then came a dump truck. Mika did not leave us anymore, a crazy story. First, he highly insisted that I warm me up in his truck but I was fine with my fire, I found his insistence a little fishy. In the end he took me up anyway... then he tells us that in 3km from there, there is something where we can find lots of trucks that go to Magadan. We answer that one can follow him by bike, no problem. Now we go for 1km and he stops at a gas station. He speaks with the lady and the answer does not seem to please him. Here he explain nothing , compresses the dumpster and starts loading our bikes. Without really understanding what is going on we help him, then climb into the truck. We leave and he returns to Susuman, I then ask him where we go. He tells me that we are going to eat and have a rest. I was furious and bubbled inside, I just loathe that someone decides on things for me without even bothering to talk about it. At no time does the man wondered whether we had time or not, or if we simply agreed that. In a flash our bikes were deposited in a garage with the saddlebags and we were in what appeared to be his apartment, but where he probably does not live. He directly shows me the sheets for the bed, the kitchen and the shower, and asks me for what we want to eat. We just hallucinated, for him it was clear and decided, we stayed there today. 

We understood nothing... furthermore he was very tactile with me, which did not help my annoyance. He came down looking for food on his return he told us to rest , he would be back this evening at 6 pm. Obviously he must have felt that something did not please me, 10 minutes later he returned with a red rose. It was certainly very nice, as the invitation moreover but honestly I did not know what to think. In the end, he returned at 4 pm, we were super uncomfortable with the situation which was imposed on us without understanding the intentions. He must have felt our feelings because he stayed 30 minutes and drank two cognacs and told us "At 9am next morning!". We stayed like idiots... He wanted that we take a taxi to go to Magadan, we told him we wanted to go by truck, the taxi was too expensive, he was more pessimistic than as everybody that we can find well but what to do, the next morning he arrived in advance looking more than depressed, we went to take our bikes and remade the road by 20°C until the end of the city this time, approximately 5km I think. And hardly had we got to where we thought we'd stop, a truck arrives, I quickly stop him, a man all smiling gets off, I ask him if he can take us he says yes, I ask him where he goes, he answers Magadan. 

1 commentaire

  • chami chamo says:

    Haha les - 25°C à vélo je te les laaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaiiiiiiiiissssssssssssse !!!

    Elle est terrible cette séquence ! Le type vous a peut-être sauvé la vie qui sait !?! Il a dû avoir la trouille pour vous, les autochtones sont toujours en train de douter des capacités des étrangers qui ne connaissent pas leur environnement ou leur culture.

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